*This post contains affiliate links. I earn a small commission from items purchased from links I share, at no additional costs to you!*
Back in October, I built a console table for my entry BUT I left it at 95% since because I couldn’t decide on a stain AND it’s over 100 lbs so lifting it back to the garage wasn’t going to happen – so she sat in the entry – sanded to only 80 grit – for 4 months…
This week, I FINALLY decided on a tone of stain after completing my Folsom Coffee Table Dupe but the only difference is the wood species. Most of the projects in my home that are stained are made from birch with the exception of the faux beams and this console table is made from SPF – a wood that is a bit more unpredictable when it comes to final tone. SPF pulls a lot of yellow but when sanded, has a beautiful natural tone to it. I love the natural tone of It but anytime I have added a clear coat or finish – it becomes yellow and I don’t love it.
Before I get to the stain, I wanted to do a full HOW-TO so you could build one and not have to wing it like I did. So let’s dive in.
MATERIALS AND CUT LIST
- 8 – 2x6x16 – $112 CAD*
- 4in Screws
- Wood Glue
- Staining Pads
- Stain (I used Weathered Oak and Early American by Minwax)
- White-wash (optional)
- Wood Conditioner
- Clear coat of choice
*This was the price in October 2022 – Currently would be $158 for 8 pieces (February 2023).*
Cuts (This may vary depending on final size of desired table)
- 8 – 55in – ends cut at 45
- 16 – 31in – one end cut at 45
- Circular saw or Mitre Saw
- Planer (optional)
Cut all the pieces to the length listed above. You can cut them shorter as well to fit your space as this piece is totally customizable. A majority of console tables in this style are actually made with 2x4s – I chose 2×6 because I wanted something bulkier – again, whatever your preference is, go that route!
Once all your pieces have the proper 45’s, it’s time to glue. I was able to use a local wood shop to do my glue up as I didn’t have enough clamps however, this glue-up is totally possible at home. Make sure all your 45’s line up on the longer pieces as well as the 45s on the leg pieces – also ensure the flat side of the legs are lined up as well. Allow glue to dry for a min. 24 hours.
Here is a part-optional step. If you have a hand planer or large enough surface planer, you can run the pieces through to ensure smoother surfaces and to make sure all pieces are the same final width. However, if you do not have one or access to one, you can sand with 80 grit. Line the pieces up on a flat surface and if you have any problems with a piece being a little wider, work on getting to be equal to the rest. This will ensure all the pieces line up beautifully and creates that waterfall effect.
Attach the legs to the top. For this, you will need 4in wood screws and wood glue. To ensure your ends don’t spilt, pre-drill your holes. Line up the mitres and apply glue – make sure they are perfect 90s – and drive the screw into the mitre, attaching the legs and top together. I did 4 screws on alternating boards on the top and 4 screws on the legs. Once this is done, you will now have a table! Allow glue to dry for 24 hours. I did add L-brackets underneath for added support and strength
Stain! The stain I ultimately decided to go with was Weather Oak followed by Early American, both by Minwax. I did apply a wood condition beforehand to avoid the wood from taking the stain unevenly. Once I was finished one coat of Weathered oak and Early American, I brought the piece inside and it was too orange compared to the other wood tones we have in our home. I went with a simple white wash to bring down the orange and it now matches the rest of the house tones! Once completely dry, give a light sanding with 220 grit and then apply a clear coat of choice (I went with a Semi-gloss finish). Apply 2-3 clear coats – sanding between each coat and the final coat.
STYLE IT! YOU’RE DONE!
I hope you enjoyed this How-To and If you make your own, be sure to tag me on instagram or let me know below! Until next time,